We had always wished to spend Christmas in some foreign land in order to see how this event is celebrated in other countries. Ideally this place had to be similar to the ones that we saw on Christmas cards; that is with wooden log cabins, fire-places and much much snow.
Eventually, a brilliant idea came to our mind! What if we went to visit Santa’s land itself in Lapland, Northern Finland?
Although many of us have grown up to believe that Father Christmas is just a legend, my daughter and I are sure that he is real. Well, he comes to visit us each year and he always leaves a lovely present for Martina. So surely, after ten annual visits to our home, we decided that it would be nice of us to exchange the courteousy.
That was how we found ourselves at Gatwick airport being led away from the usual crowded queues by a special officer who rang a bell in order to call for those whose destination was Ivalo airport.
Soon, several families with excited children joined the group and off we went on a charter airplane which was waiting to take us to this magical land. Everything was superb from the start, even this flight which was completely dedicated to entertain the children with enjoyable games. Then, when we were approaching land, all the children turned to the airplane’s window in order to watch for Santa’s flying sleigh. We did not succeed to see it but deep beneath the fluffy white clouds, there appeared a strange landscape of dark land, remarkably patterned with plentiful shiny rivers and lakes. So that was how the Arctic Circle looked!
Our airplane landed smoothly down at Ivalo’s minute airport in Lapland, North Finland and soon we found ourselves walking in the crunchy snow. Mischievous, brightly dressed elves slid out together with our luggage and greeted us with playful tricks, whilst a traditionally dressed Finnish Sami, who forms part of the indigenous people of this area, welcomed us to his land in the company of a large reindeer. A coach transferred us to the tourist resort in Saariselkä which was only 25 minutes away.
Since in Saariselkä, the temperature goes down well beyond zero degrees, we had to pack a couple of cosy clothes in our luggage. However, on arrival, everyone was provided with a complimentary thermal outer-suit, along with woolen socks, snow boots, outer gloves and hats, in order to guarantee a comfortable stay since there the temperature could go down to -30 degrees celcius.
There is a good choice of hotels wherein to spend this holiday: starting from Santa’s Kieppi which is built in the traditional Finnish style, and moving on to the modern style Santa’s Holiday Club which includes an indoor pool with waves and chutes. We chose to stay in Hotel Kieppi because we considered it to be more authentic. Its owner, Matti Välitalo, informed us that in Finnish, the word ‘kieppi’ referred to the burrow where animals hibernated during winter, and surely this place was warm and snug contrasting to the icy coldness outside.
Between the beginning of December and the first days of January, Saariselkä experiences the polar night as the sun does not rise. However the place does not lie in total darkness since the light of the moon, the stars, and the magnificent Northern Lights are reflected by the snow, and therefore one can move around easily at whatever time. During this period, at about ten in the morning, the dusky blue sky turns into an unusual blend of silver and blue colours which is later imbued with different hues of blue and red, until at about three in the afternoon, when it starts getting dark again. This entire ambience felt strange at first but once we got used to it, it enhanced each and every moment and turned it into a unique Christmas experience. We really felt as if we had stepped into another world.
Even the activities that we could do were extraordinary and it didn’t take very long to see the adults being transformed into joyful and happy children. It’s bound to be! For how can one resist the feeling of a true white Christmas whilst squishing or toboganning in the milky Arctic snow? We were provided with free toboganns from our hotel and Martina took the opportunity to be pulled all along the way. I have to admit that it was somewhat frightening at first because we had never experienced this sport. But when we saw very young children shooting down confidently, we walked up the small snowy hill and off we went. Oh my! It felt like flying! An amazing experience! Anyhow, we lost count how much rides we did.
Each time we travelled by coach, our guides made their utmost in order to help us feel the Christmas spirit. Once more, we found the atmosphere quite captivating as we sang heartily a couple of old Christmas songs along with people coming from various countries around the world, under a sky packed with twinkling stars.
However surely, the best moment of this holiday for each visitor, whether adult or young was the special visit to the village of Father Christmas in the Arctic Circle. Here, with activities ranging from ice fishing, toboganning, reindeer sleigh rides, snow hockey, skidoo rides, and an igloo bar, who can wish for more? Yet there was more! In fact, after providing us with the required instructions, we were offered to drive a pack of huskies in the snow. My husband controlled the huskies and my daughter and I huddled up in the sleigh wrapped up in reindeer skin. What a delight!
Still, more followed since each family, at some point or another, was secretly and quickly hurried upon a snowmobile-sled in order to search for the elves who knew how to point the way to Santa’s log cabin which was craftily hidden in the icy woods. It was a really enthralling experience to enter into the warmth of Santa’s magical hut and to find him sitting in his huge wooden chair amid a multitude of colourful presents. Martina was dumbfounded as she noticed that Santa was holding and reading her own hand-written letter which she had sent him some days ago by post from Valletta! When she found some courage, she told him that many of her friends told her that he did not exist.
“Well now you have seen that I do!” he told her warmly as he laughed heartily and gave her a beautiful teddy bear. Martina hugged Santa as if to check that she was not dreaming and she even kissed him on the cheek. Once our private meeting with Santa was over, we were taken back to the rest of the group but Martina was simply entranced by this experience.
On Christmas day, we attended a gala dinner where we discovered that in Finland, ham is the Christmas food specialty. However we were treated to a bountiful meal of different meats and fish, together with a selection of pastries and delicious wild berries.
We surely missed the company of our dear family members and the sweet presence of baby Jesus in his crib which was nowhere in sight in these locations. Yet in Saariselkä everything was designed to entertain visitors and one will absolutely not have time to feel a trace of sadness.
We spent only four days in Santa’s Lapland but the surrealism of the place mystified the aspect of time and we felt as if we belonged there. Surely no other Christmas will ever match this one.
(This article was published in the Travel Supplement of The Sunday Times of Malta dated 2nd November 2014)
Kull tant żmien, l-umanità tnissel numru ta’ individwi prolifiċi li permezz tagħhom jitwettqu proġetti sinifikanti li jwasslu biex ibiddlu l-istorja ta’ pajjiżhom u sikwit, anki dik tad-dinja. Wieħed minn dawn kien Themistocles Zammit, li aktar tard sar magħruf bħala Sir Temi Zammit. Akkost li Zammit kien ġej minn familja umli, fejn il-ġenituri tiegħu la kienu jafu jiktbu u lanqas jaqraw, huwa rnexxielu jirbaħ bosta ostakli u jilħaq l-ogħla unuri. Infatti, fost il-kisbiet tiegħu, huwa sar tabib u speċjalizza fil-qasam tal-kimika. Kien ukoll awtur tal-letteratura Maltija, rettur fl-Università ta’ Malta, kreatur u direttur tal-ewwel Mużew Nazzjonali u kuratur tas-sezzjoni tal-arkeoloġija. Ċertament, b’dawn ix-xogħlijiet tiegħu, Zammit għamel bosta suċċessi personali, iżda fl-istess ħin, huwa kiseb ukoll ġieħ u rispett lejn il-poplu Malti u lejn pajjiżu. Madanakollu sal-ġurnata ta’ llum, fil-gżejjer tagħna ma ssib l-ebda monument li jagħti dak il-prestiġju nazzjonali li tant jixraq lil dan l-individwu. X’żammna lura?
Jintqal li l-bniedem huwa essenzjalment prodott ta’ żmienu u għalhekk l-awtur, biex jifhem aħjar lil Temi Zammit, irriċerka wkoll fl-iċken dettall il-kuntest li dan għex fih. Għaldaqstant, din il-bijografija tinkludi wkoll introduzzjoni twila mhux ħażin li tiddeskrivi s-sitwazzjonijiet soċjali, kulturali, politiċi, ekonomiċi u reliġjużi li ċertament kellhom influwenza qawwija fuq Zammit. B’hekk il-qarrej apparti li jista’ jifli mill-qrib il-ħajja ta’ dan l-individwu, li tkopri ż-żmien bejn l-1864 u l-1935, għandu wkoll materjal informattiv dwar il-qagħda tal-gżejjer tagħna fi żmien meta dawn kienu meqjusa bħala bażi navali Brittanika importanti ħafna.
Rigward il-qasam tal-letteratura Maltija li ġie inkluż f’din il-bijografija, tkellimt mal-Prof. Oliver Friggieri, li għoġbu jintroduċini wkoll man-novelli ħelwin li kiteb dan il-personaġġ u li dwarhom kiteb l-awtur.
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Biex kollox jagħqad, ċertu Anton Ellul, li kien ħabib ta’ Joe u jiġi minn Josephine, sabu waħdu u qallu joqgħod attent għax Josephine kienet għadha tifla. Għalhekk Joe ħaseb li jwaqqaf ir-relazzjoni, iżda biddel fehmtu kif sar jaf li Josephine kellha 19-il sena. U f’konverżazzjoni li kellhom, flok ma qalilha li kellu 28 sena, qalilha li kellu 27. Dan biex flok il-qabża fl-età tkun tidher ta’ disa’ snin, tkun ta’ tmienja. Għalkemm ma’ kull birthday kien jgħidilha l-verità dwar l-età tiegħu, hi kienet taħseb li jkun qed jiċċajta. Dan il-fatt dam għaddej sa lejliet it-tie; u sa meta Josephine ġabret iċ-ċertifikati tal-magħmudija għall-kappillan.
Biex tagħqad, it-televiżjoni u anki l-internet kultant saru mezzi ta’ permissività anki għat-tfal żgħar. Dan jirriżulta wkoll minn filmati tal-pupazzi fuq il-kompjuter, fejn id-diretturi jinqdew bil-pupu u jirrakkuntaw stejjer kważi kważi sesswali, lil tfal ta’ ftit snin. Dawn, li jitilgħu f’dan l-ambjent minn ċkunithom, ma jistgħux jinbidlu ’l quddiem, jekk isegwu t-tali filmati, u allura immaġina x’ħajja jistennew li jgħaddu minnha. Ovvjament, il-hajja ta’ madwarhom tagħmilhom skjavi tagħha bla ma jridu. Anki ż-żgħażagħ li jaraw film fuq it-televiżjoni, bla ma jridu jkollhom isegwu partijiet minnu li żgur setgħu tħallew barra, u ma jimbarazzawx lill-genituri tagħhom u lin-nanniet, li magħhom ikunu jsegwuhom.
Trid jew ma tridx tieħu grazzja ma’ xi ħadd tfittex li tkun miegħu jew magħha u tiftaħ qalbek ukoll, u tibni fis-sod.
Il-ħlewwa tiġbdek u l-gost ipaxxik u għalhekk minn barra jidher li kollox b’saħħtu. Trid tara ġewwa x’hemm. Meta bniedem tal-affari tiegħu jixtri dar, ifittex perit biex jgħarbel jekk id-dar fihiex nuqqasijiet moħbija u b’hekk ikollu rasu mistrieħa li daru soda.
“Kif ħlisna mill-għarqa, sirna nafu li l-gżira kien jisimha Malta. In-nies tagħha ġabu ruħhom magħna bi ħlewwa liema bħalha. Laqgħuna tajjeb lilna lkoll u qabbdulna ħuġġieġa, għax kienet bdiet nieżla x-xita u kien il-bard….” Għoddni qed nilmaħ lill-appostlu San Luqa jikteb dawn il-vrus taħt id-dawl kiebi ta’fjamma ta’ xemgħa tperper maż-żiffa dieħla fil-kamra. L-istess ġabra ta’ kliem li llum, wara dawn is-snin kollha, għadna nisimgħu jinqara kull sena waqt il-quddiesa taċ-ċelebrazzjoni tal-miġja ta’ San Pawl f’pajjiżna. Jingħad li fis-sena 60 W.K., San Pawl waqqaf l-ewwel knisja f’Malta, proprju fil-grotta tar-Rabat, fejn kien qiegħed jiġi miżmum bħala ħabsi. U minn hemm beda l-kult qawwi Pawlin li matul is-snin ġibed lil bosta barranin lejn pajjiżna, hekk kif dawn xtaqu jmiddu passejhom fuq l-istess art li mexa fuqha dan il-qaddis. Hekk kif Frar huwa sinonimu ma’ din il-ġrajja tant kbira, għal dil-ġimgħa għażilt li nżur il-kumpless tal-Mużew Wignacourt li jinsab ir-Rabat, liema binja twassal ukoll għall-grotta ta’ San Pawl. Madanakollu, hekk kif flimkien mal-Kuratur Dun Ġwann Azzopardi u mal-Assistenta Kuratriċi, Michelle Galea, dort il-livelli varji li fih dan il-post, bqajt sorpriża kemm fir-realtà dan is-sit huwa ġawhra ta’ wirt kulturali li ma jkoprix biss din il-ġrajja imma anki diversi perjodi oħra tal-istorja għanja ta’ pajjiżna.
Infatti jidher illi kien il-patri eremita Spanjol, Juan Benegas de Cordoba, li kabbar din id-devozzjoni meta fis-17 il-seklu, huwa żar din il-grotta u din tant laqtitu li ddeċieda li jiddedika ħajtu biex jippromwovi din id-devozzjoni lejn San Pawl fil-gżejjer tagħna. Il-ħsieb tiegħu rnexxa, hekk kif dan beda jattratta lejn pajjiżna ammont kbir ta’ pellegrini sabiex iżuru dan il-post. Dan il-fatt ġibed ukoll l-attenzjoni tal-Gran Mastru Fra Alof de Wignacourt li ma damx wisq ma għaraf il-potenzjal ta’ sit bħal dan u xtaqu li jsir tal-Ordni peress li din ma kellha l-ebda proprjetà li kienet abbinata ma’ dan il-qaddis, filwaqt li d-Djoċesi ta’ Malta kellha aktar minn post wieħed. Wara diversi diskussjonijiet, fosthom mal-Papa Pawlu V, ġie deċiż li l-grotta ta’ San Pawl kellha tgħaddi f’idejn il-kustodja ta’ l-Ordni u tinfired minn mal-parroċċa ddedikata lill-istess qaddis li kienet inbniet fis-16 il-seklu, sabiex din tibqa’ tal-Isqof u tal-poplu. Min-naħa tiegħu l-Gran Mastru kien obbligat li jipproteġi l-grotta u li jagħmilha disponibbli għall-pellegrini. B’hekk huwa ordna l-kostruzzjoni ta’ palazz maħsub għall-Kappillani ta’ l-Ordni li kellhom ir-responsabbiltà li jieħdu ħsieb is-sigurtà ta’ din il-grotta lejl u nhar. M’hemmx għalfejn ngħidu, dan kien ukoll mezz li bih setgħu jintlaqgħu wkoll l-aqwa nobbiltà ta’ dak iż-żmien f’pajjiżna fejn apparti li dawn kienu jkunu miġbuda mill-ispiritwalità tal-post, dawn kienu jiġu attratti wkoll mill-prestiġju tal-Ordni u probabbilment kienu jħallu xi kemxa ġmielha warajhom. Fil-fatt fuq il-grotta, l-Ordni bniet ukoll knisja ċkejkna ddedikata lil San Publiju fejn illum il-viżitaturi jistgħu jaraw dak li ħallewlna l-kavallieri f’dan il-post, fosthom kwadru titulari li juri xbieha tal-Madonna bil-Bambin li qed iżomm f’idejh is-salib ta’ l-Ordni, liema xogħol huwa tal-artist Mattia Preti.
Il-mawra fil-Mużew ta’ Wignacourt issa niżlitna ‘l isfel, lejn il-katakombi msawwra fil-blat tal-madwar. Ikolli ngħid li kont impressjonata ferm bl-istat tajjeb ta’ konservazzjoni ta’ dan is-sit. Ta’ min isemmi illi dan il-mużew għamel madwar sena u nofs magħluq sabiex isirlu r-restawr u l-konservazzjoni li kellu bżonn, wara li kien ilu miftuħ mill-1981, u kien f’Diċembru tal-2013 li reġa’ nfetaħ għall-pubbliku. Il-katakombi jkopru perjodi differenti fl-istorja u jitfgħu dawl sinifikanti fuq ir-ritwali ta’ dak iż-żmien. Kif bosta minnha jafu, dawn l-inħawi tar-Rabat huma miżgħuda b’dawn il-katakombi li llum jinsabu mifruxa taħt id-djar tal-madwar u minn żmien għall-ieħor nisimgħu b’xi skoperta ta’ xi parti oħra tagħhom. Infatti, ġara l-istess hawn ukoll fejn f’dawn l-aħħar snin, waqt xi xogħolijiet li kienu qed isiru, inkixfet parti oħra żgħira ta’ katakombi li fiha nstabet agape table li madwarha n-nies kienu jiċċelebraw il-vjaġġ tal-mejjet lejn dinja aħjar permezz ta’ ikla bejniethom. Sfortunatament, il-katakombi kollha li jinsabu ġo dan il-post ġew imbattla milli kien fihom u minflok intlew bit-terrapien waqt it-Tieni Gwerra Dinjija sabiex tissaħħaħ l-art ħalli taħtha jitħaffru aktar xelters. Min jaf x’qatt instab u x’qatt ittieħed minn dawn il-katakombi matul is-snin! Imma f’qabar minnhom, ġewwa din il-parti ċkejkna tal-katakombi li nstabet dan l-aħħar, wieħed għadu jista’ jara xi għadam uman li b’xi mod irnexxielu jiskappa d-destin li għaddew minnu l-oqbra l-oħra.
Taraġ ieħor aktar ‘l isfel li donnu jieħdok fil-qalba tal-art, iwassal għax-xelters li kellhom jitħaffru malajr sabiex joffru protezzjoni lin-nies tal-inħawi waqt l-attakki kiefra tal-gwerra. Mill-ġdid, dawn ix-xelters miżmuma f’kundizzjoni mill-iprem, jitfgħu dawl differenti lil realtà oħra li għex il-poplu tagħna f’passat aktar riċenti. F’dawn ix-xelters, wieħed isib ħamsin kamra b’kollox u meta wieħed jgħodd kemm kienu jesgħu nies anki l-kurituri ta’ bejniethom, ġie kkalkulat li setgħu jilqgħu fihom madwar 350 persuna. Fatt interessanti huwa li wħud minn dawn il-kmamar ġew imżejjna, kemm billi nżebgħu l-ħitan tagħhom, u anki permezz ta’ madum sabiħ kollu diżinji kkuluriti. Jagħtik li taħseb li anki f’dan iż-żmien imwiegħer u f’din is-sitwazzjoni ta’ tbatija u ta’ biża’, kien hemm min ittanta jsebbaħ anki din it-toqba fil-blat, forsi biex jinsa l-kruha. Madanakollu, fir-rigward ta’ kamra minnhom partikolarment aktar imdaqqsa u rranġata, kien hemm xi anzjani Rabtin li taw indikazzjoni li din kienet qed tiġi użata biex in-nisa tqal setgħu jwelldu t-trabi tagħhom fiha jekk jinqabdu waqt xi attakk mill-ajru. Ikun tassew interessanti li kieku nsibu lil xi ħadd li għadu jiftakar dan iż-żmien u jittieħed rikordju bil-miktub u idealment viżwali tal-memorji tiegħu.
Fis-sular ta’ fuq, il-viżitaturi jistgħu josservaw il-lussu tal-palazz li dari kien tal-Kappillani tal-Ordni u li llum huwa mibdul fi swali ta’ esebizzjonijiet varji. Parti kbira mill-esebizzjonijiet tinkludi bosta xogħolijiet tal-arti ta’ wħud mill-aqwa artisti bħal Vincenzo Hyzler, Francesco Zahra, Giuseppe Calì, Antoine Favray u Mattia Preti. L-iktar pittura antika fil-kollezzjoni ta’ dan il-mużew huwa kwadru poliptiku tal-1588 li llum hu ffurmat minn ħames partijiet fejn fihom wieħed isegwi l-ħajja ta’ San Pawl. Xogħol ieħor interessanti juri xbieha tad-Duluri li ġiet impinġija fuq injama ta’ daqs żgħir minn Mattia Preti. Minħabba li din ix-xbieha nħadmet b’lewn wieħed kjar oskur u peress li m’għandix is-soliti movimenti bħall-pitturi oħra, hemm min jaħseb li l-artist seta’ ħadem din il-pittura għalih biex iġorrha miegħu bħala speċi ta’ santa. Esebizzjonijiet oħra jinkludu relikwi, fosthom anki kopja tal-liżar ta’ Turin li ġiet awtentikata fl-1663, kwadri tal-ex-voto, paramenti ta’ Papa Pawlu V, mapep antiki u numru ta’ artifatti arkeoloġiċi li jingħad li nstabu fl-inħawi tal-Baħrija u tar-Rabat. Esebit ieħor interessanti huwa artal portabbli li kien jintuża fuq ix-xwieni; oġġett rari li probabbilment bħalu wieħed isib biss f’xi kollezzjoni privata. Wieħed jista’ jżur ukoll il-kamra tal-Kapitli mgħonija b’għadd ta’ kwadri ta’ Gran Mastri differenti, fosthom dak ta’ Wignacourt. Imbagħad hemm ukoll il-kappella li kienu jużaw il-kavallieri u sepulkru li kien jintrama f’Ħamis ix-Xirka. Kamra oħra li laqtitni kienet dik tat-teżorier li fuq is-sodda tiegħu, fl-għoli fuq ir-raff, imma dejjem taħt għajnejh, kien iżomm il-kaxxa tal-flus ħalli jipprova jevita milli xi ħadd jisraqhielu.
Bla dubju, il-Mużew Wignacourt joffri esperjenza distinta lil kull min iżuru, hekk kif dan il-post u l-kollezzjonijiet tiegħu, kapaċi jolqtu għadd ta’ interessi differenti. Peress li wieħed jeħtieġ iqatta’ siegħa jew tnejn jekk irid jara sewwa dan il-post, kafetterija li tinsab f’dan il-mużew, tkompli ssaħħaħ il-professjonalità ta’ dan is-sit li għandu jkun xempju għas-siti kulturali kollha tagħna.
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